Throughout history, fashion, clothing and colours have been significant markers of expression, symbolism and, most prominently, defiance. Certain styles, colours of fabrics, and garments have implicitly or explicitly come to represent political ideas. One example is the French Revolution, where red and blue symbolised the distinctive colours of Paris while white represented the monarchy and purity. The revolution expressed equality through more simplistic clothing in line with its ideals that were republican and egalitarian, thus rejecting the pervasive royalism. This is an apt illustration of how clothing choices are never purely aesthetic but embody a host of political and social desires.
Fashion hasn’t only been a means of defiance, but has also served as a means of forging identities and uniting people throughout history. Fashion undergoes a process of change and evolution in response to its contemporary socio-political contexts. An excellent example of this can be seen in the recent emergence of American and Western fashion trends, which have come to represent the ideals of individuality and the freedom of choice. In the Soviet Union too, blue jeans became the symbol of the divide between the old and the new.
Fashion and Symbolism in the Indian Freedom Struggle and Post-Independence Era:
In India, fashion and clothing have played a crucial role in shaping political ideas and have been a symbol of expression, especially during the national movement, where they contributed to creating a new national identity. Mahatma Gandhi brilliantly utilised clothing choices and styles to shape ideas of self-reliance, unity, and resistance. His promotion of hand-spun khadi also reflects his view towards capitalism and was a direct rejection of British-manufactured goods. In this instance too, fashion wasn’t merely an aesthetic choice but a political statement signalling commitment to ideas of self-reliance and Indian self-determination.
Beyond political leaders and parties, fashion has served as a powerful expression tool for the general public. Throughout history, the general public have adopted various styles that reflect the prevailing social attitudes and personal aspirations. Therefore, it can be said that fashion can be used to express both political and personal aspirations, its evolution is a product of both social and private domains. For instance, khadi promoted by Gandhiji during the Swadeshi movement was not only worn by political leaders but also gained popularity among the masses to symbolise the individual's solidarity with the national cause.
Popular culture at the time also encapsulate quite well the persistent hate towards foreign clothing and an inclination towards khadi, R.K Narayan’s Malgudi Days captures this tension very well where the embracement of khadi and the rejection of western apparels was often the point of recognition and awakening. Lets also look at B.R Ambedkar at the other end who unlike Gandhi is often imagined in western formal apparel, his desire was for the Dalit community to break free from the traditional structures that had kept them subjugated for centuries, the suit was a manifestation of his larger goal which was to empower marginalized communities by promoting education and social reform and creating a new proud identity which according to him could have only been achieved through western education.
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Even after independence, fashion evolved with the nation as both sought to balance between tradition and modern aspirations. The Nehru Jacket from the post-independence period, was a simple yet dignified garment– bold and elegant, much like the person it has been named after. The Nehru Jacket is the perfect example of how personal branding in fashion strongly emphasises the personalities and political messages of these leaders. Indira Gandhi’s signature white sarees with contrasting borders also symbolised her strong presence and dedication.
KANT was the first well-known philosopher to express himself on the subject of fashion. According to him, fashion is a law of imitation according to which “the human being has a natural tendency to compare his behaviour to that of a more important person (the child with adults, the lower-ranking person with those of higher rank) in order to imitate the other persons’ ways”. Gandhi and Nehru well understood this aspect of fashion and created a new national identity through it, especially Gandhi, who deployed these aesthetics of the simple Indian handspun khadi in the struggle for freedom, a man of his stature wearing such an attire meant that for the first time the Indian public could look up to someone who not only spoke for them but physically embodied their struggles and values through his attire.
Fashion’s Role in Contemporary Indian Politics
As a matter of fact, contemporary leaders are aware of the impact of fashion in political messaging and conveying ideas effectively. Prime Minister Modi can be seen in different regional headgears during election season; he frequently sports the Nehru jacket, which, with the rise of his cult, has even been frequently called the Modi Jacket. By emphasising khadi, Modi reinforces his "Make in India" initiative, which seeks to strengthen India’s domestic industries and reduce reliance on foreign imports. Narendra Modi’s advocacy of khadi and traditional wear reinforces nationalistic and self-reliant values, this can be seen as a conscious effort in trying to connect his image to Gandhian ideals. In contrast, Rahul Gandhi prefers plain white T-shirts, projecting himself as a modern, youthful and energetic leader.
The use of modern fashion trends determines the current political outcome and sways voting behaviour. Rahul Gandhi's decision of simple clothes is a clear example, he wears plain white T-shirts and jeans most of the time, seen especially during the Bharat Jodo Yatra to appear younger and approachable. The choice against more formal or traditionalist attire can be better related to the choice of both the younger and middle-class voters who perceive him to be down-to-earth. His dressing is a result of breaking up from ordinariness about political formality and helps portray him to be an accessible, up-to-date leader who won't hesitate to reach personally to ordinary people. This picture would create the right feel and vibe among voters, such as authenticity and change-appealing voters by sensitively moulding perceptions regarding political identity and intent. Here are some choices that showcase how fashion can remain very crucial in the delivery of ideas and connection to the people.
A friend offered an interesting interpretation regarding the Rashtriya Swayamsevak Sangh (RSS) uniform; “it reflects the organisation’s ideology and values” he said. The uniform visually encapsulates the beliefs and traditions that RSS stands for, underscoring how fashion can resonate deeply with ideological identity. The RSS uniform consists of khaki shorts, white shirts, and black caps, any uniform’s main purpose through the function of its design is to remove distinctions even though for some people it might appear as erasing identities, though most interpretations of a visual display depends heavily on the context of the viewers, in fact here lies the most convenient function of fashion, that it has an ability to leave a strong impression on the minds of audiences, the militaristic style of the RSS uniform invokes different feelings and the fact remains that the effects of political messaging remains subjective, it can mean different things without saying any specific thing, what values of the RSS does its uniform represent? It represents what one wants to interpret and likewise to denounce or glorify, fashion serves as a political tool which while might appear subtle but a difference of a shade or a scarf tied in a different knot can change everything for the beholder. Roland Barthes rightly says in his ‘The Language of Fashion’: “It is far more difficult to understand the language that speaks to us from the clothing and decoration of a people.”
Global Fashion trends as vehicles of Soft Power.
Fashion continues to mirror broader cultural shifts, reflecting contemporary geopolitical situations. The dominance of western fashion in much of the modern world illustrates American soft power. However, Indian society has retained strong cultural ties, leading to the rise of Indo-Western fusion fashion, reflecting a society that honours its roots while embracing modernity. Fashion, especially in India has become a tool of political expression and cultural expression.
World Leaders can often be seen sporting the traditional attires of their home countries during foreign visits, Modi's clothing preferences have taken Indian cultural soft power to further heights as Indian attire and khadi outfits are easily recognized worldwide. Embracing ancient styles in a modernist manner, Modi has transformed himself into a modern statesman who is deeply ingrained within Indian culture. The outfit choices carry messages of respect for Indian traditions in subtle ways. Modi has demonstrated, through fashion strategically, how dressing is a powerful weapon in modern politics, associating cultural symbolism with soft power and thus influencing the world's public perception from inside India.
Fashion develops according to the contemporary socio-political stage of a globalising world. A strong sense of narrative fashion has indeed been changing and it always acts as a statement of resistance, solidarity or defiance. In India, it has always been closely related to politics, from being self-sufficient in khadi to modern-day Nehru jackets that express the synthesis between tradition and modernity. Given that adaptation is continuously underway, aspiration will always reflect the constantly shifting faces of evolution. For example, the sustainability and eco-friendliness of clothing choices would be a statement of the consciousness of consumers. This will continue to be an unifying force creating new identities. Unfortunately, this will also create divisive identities set to clash with each other. The dual nature of fashion reminds us that fashion will always mirror society.
Fashion acts as a language that communicates political ideology, personal identity, and national values. Fashion is not just about aesthetics, it’s about making powerful, often silent, statements. To understand and interpret them in their own contexts is perhaps the right way to comprehend underlying motives. We can see through the examples from Indian history which range from Gandhian khadi to contemporary political attire, demonstrating how clothing choices serve as tools for resistance, identity formation, and political positioning.
By Siddharth Thakur
Siddharth Thakur is an English Hons student at Hindu College. He writes about politics and history through different themes in social contexts.
References
Fashion and the French Revolution - Fashion Law Journal
Superb article and very informative👍
Siddharth I really enjoyed your article "How fashion shapes power and perception".Your ideas and perception on the subject in question speaks volumes about the depth of your apperception.The process of showing your prowess through such well researched articles on diverse themes should go uninterrupted to entertain and educate all.
Brilliantly written and informative . Indeed fashion is a mirror of a society ,reflecting sociopolitical and cultural changes.
So Insightful article......Keep it up Dear !!!
Unique and creative